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bboyho on SEN-13007 - Fingerprint Scanner - 5V TTL (GT-511C1R)

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Fingerprint Scanner - 5V TTL GT511-C1R

We don’t sell the cable with the GT-511C1R fingerprint scanner https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13007. You would need to get the 4 wire JST SH jumper cable separately https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10359. There is more than one way to create a connection between the fingerprint scanner and your system. For a more secure connection with the thin gauged wire, I recommend modifying the cable. Any loose connections can have issues powering the sensor and sending reliable data. Check below for more information:

Serial UART Connection w/ 4 Wire JST SH Cable

For a secure connection, I recommend soldering the ends of the wire to some header pins [like these https://www.sparkfun.com/products/116] so that the connection is not loose when inserting it into a standard female header sockets on an FTDI or the RedBoard/Arduino Uno. This will provide easy access to the small 4-pin JST-SH connector that is on the fingerprint scanner.

After checking the connections of the scanner in the datasheet, I soldered connections from the JST -SH connector labeled J2 from the scanner to the header pins. I used some heat shrink in order to use it with the FTDI to reinforce the solder joint. As a note, make sure to remove the JST-SH SMD connector that is on the 4-wire jumper wire assembly. This is the same connector that is on the fingerprint scanner. You should be able to remove the connector easily with your hands without cutting any of the assembly off. The connections with the header pins are based on the footprint of the 5V FTDI basic breakout https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716 w/ a mini-B cable https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 :

Pin #    Fingerprint Scanner    <-> FTDI 5V
1          UART_TX             <->   RX
2          UART_RX             <->   TX
3          GND                  <->   GND
4          Vin (3.3V~6V)        <->   5V

Note: If you were using the JST-SH cable, you would be wiring the black wire to pin 1 (next to the notch indicating the polarity on the fingerprint scanner to the Rx pin of your FTDI,

For an example of the modified cable assembly, I suggest checking out the images from our Google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0jwgLkjMWzDfnktUkt5ekQxQi1TcXk3QnhMN2J0Q3VXT2Y4NXRZdG9wa05EemZjY0dCazg

Demo Software Development Kit (SDK) For basic operation with the demo software, I recommend checking out the demo software that is linked in the documents section of the product page. Each demo software is unique to that version of the fingerprint scanner and it will not work with the other versions. After connecting the fingerprint scanner to the FTDI, I was able to utilize all of the features as stated in the datasheet. These features in the demo software are based on the protocol commands.

To operate on a computer using the SDK, just open the SDK_DEMO.exe executable, select the COM port that the FTDI enumerated to from the serial port number’s drop down menu, and click on the Open button. You would need to enroll your finger 3 times for the ID before the scanner can save it as a template.

Example Code for Arduino If you were using a microcontroller with the fingerprint scanner, you would need to write code based off of the demo software and the protocol commands. Luckily, there was someone in the community that wrote some example code to blink the blue LED, enroll, and identify the fingerprint that was saved in a template. It is posted in a GitHub Repository [ https://github.com/sparkfun/Fingerprint_Scanner-TTL ] . This code works with the GT511C3, GT511C1, and GT511C1R. This code is incomplete and would require more code to utilize all the features of the fingerprint scanner like in the SDK. Here are the connections that you would need to make:

Pin #    Fingerprint Scanner  <-> Arduino Uno
1          UART_TX                       <->  RX (pin 4)
2          UART_RX                      <->  TX (pin 5)
3          GND                           <->   GND
4          Vin (3.3V~6V)                <->    5V

Software Serial with the Arduino Mega 2560 The demo code was designed for the Atmega328P on the Arduino Uno. If you were using it with an Arduino Mega2560, you would need to re-configure the software serial pin definitions. The reason why is because not all the pins on the Arduino Mega can support change interrupts for a serial Rx pin as stated in the limitations =>https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/SoftwareSerial . Just change this section of code on line 18:

 FPS_GT511C3 fps(4, 5); //software serial pins for Arduino's / Atmega328P's

to

FPS_GT511C3 fps(10, 11); //software serial acceptable pin for the Arduino Mega

Direct USB Connection w/ USB Port

Demo Software Development Kit (SDK) I have only tested this with the previous GT-511C1 but it should work the same.

To connect the GT-511C1R fingerprint scanner with the demo software and your computer’s USB port, you can connect the pins on the back of the board labeled with J1 directly to the USB port of your computer. I used a micro-B breakout board and a USB micro-B to A cable. Here are the connections that you would need to make:

Fingerprint Scanner <=> USB Connector
Shield (left most pin)  <=> USB Shield (not necessary if you use a USB breakout board)
GND                     <=> GND (Standard USB Black Wire)
D+                       <=> D+ (Standard USB Green Wire)
D-                       <=> D- (Standard USB White Wire)
Vcc (square pin)         <=> 5V (Standard USB Red Wire)

By connecting to your computer, it will show up as a USB Mass Storage Device on My Computer (“Gingy Disk” is the name of the Removable Storage Device).

Note: Certain USB Cables have D- as green and D+ as white. For an example of making your cable assembly, check out the images in our Google Drive. The images provided shows the non-standard colors wired up for the data lines with a USB connector. If the fingerprint scanner is not recognized by your computer in the device manager or there is a warning message, try reversing the data pins on the fingerprint scanner and it should enumerate properly.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0jwgLkjMWzDSnVtc2tVMllYS1E

Troubleshooting

Scanner Not Recognizing your Fingers? There have been issues trying to enroll with the Arduino example code. This is usually due to fingers being dry and not having good contact on the scanner. The timing of your finger on the scanner is a little tricky too. I had to try enrolling a few times before it was able to enroll or identify my finger. This is common with any fingerprint scanner like the one that is on my smartphone. Try re-enrolling your finger.

Hardware Connections Resistors for Logic Level Conversion? The example code was originally used with an Arduino and the GT-511C3. Looking at the datasheet to compare, it looks like it might be 5V tolerant since it does not have 3.3V I/O limitations. If you are having issues using this fingerprint sensor with the resistors, try removing the resistors that were meant to voltage shift the signals. I had a customer that had problems using this with the resistors explained in the Instructable tutorial. When he removed it, he got it to work.

Loose Connections Make sure that there are no loose connections. The last thing to check is the connection between your scanner and Arduino. Each of the fingerprint scanners use the same command protocols so the Arduino example code in the Instructables tutorial can be used for any of the scanners.


bboyho on DEV-13024 - Intel® Edison

bboyho on XBee Shield Hookup Guide

wirenut1980 on Enginursday: Building Large LED Projects

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Cool space. My eyes went right for the clock then the cables below it, once that happened they stuck out like a sore thumb.

Ninjared on WIG-13660 - WAV Trigger

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Is there any way to send the audio output through wires instead of using the 3.5mm jack? I’m sending signal to wire inputs on a class-D amplifier, and I don’t have enough room to fit a 3.5mm plug. I searched the hookup guide, user guide, and datasheet and couldn’t find an answer.

robertsonics on WIG-13660 - WAV Trigger

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Not using an existing connector. You could always just solder 3 wires to the pins/pads of the 3.5mm jack.

CaptInfinity on CEL-13120 - SparkFun Cellular Shield - MG2639

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This may be helpful to others… I signed up for an AT&T developer IoT kit: https://att.m2m.com/devkit/ It comes with 3 SIM’s. To get these working with the MG2639 you’ll need to run a few AT commands that aren’t natively build into the Arduino library:

  1. Set the APN AT+ZPNUM=“m2m.com.attz”,“”,“”
  2. Enable Network Registration (I think you need to do this, not 100% sure) AT+CREG=1
  3. Open the Network Session AT+ZPPPOPEN

I still have yet to figure out how to get a number assigned to the SIM, it may not be possible with the M2M kit from AT&T.

Customer #134773 on Enginursday: Building Large LED Projects

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Wish you’d have some practical info about the Retail Space somewhere (logical) on the web site – like street address (for the friendly GPS) and the hours of operation.


Customer #363230 on TOL-12630 - Wire Strippers - 30AWG (Hakko)

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This is well made precision tool. the action is smooth. they do their job very well, even at the smaller wire sizes. Definitely worth the investment.

Customer #481998 on DEV-11166 - Arduino Ethernet Shield 2

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It barely mentions PoE. Is that really available and will it power a UNO?

menehune23 on DEV-12923 - SparkFun MicroView - OLED Arduino Module

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Very cool! I’ve also been working on a small joypad for the MicroView that pairs nicely with game programming. It’s called MicroJoy, and you can build your own here. Hope it’s useful to anyone wanting to build games with MicroView!

Kes on DEV-11166 - Arduino Ethernet Shield 2

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Yes it is, and it will power an uno. There’s a bit more info on the copy over at the product page for the board http://www.arduino.org/products/arduino-ethernet-shield-2

Customer #81851 on Enginursday: Building Large LED Projects

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I guess it’s not obviously logical, but at some point I found some location information on the shipping information page referring to local pickup.

There’s also the contact page available at the bottom of the home page along with a subtle Niwot, CO linked to a map among those at the very very bottom of the most pages.

I agree that it could be more prominent, but it only seems useful for people in the area already. I had better luck finding an address via a Google search as an out-of-town visitor for AVC 2015.

Customer #603773 on WRL-13287 - SparkFun WiFi Shield - ESP8266

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Can we have one of these with an FTDI built in for SDK programming? Would make life so easy!

jpbot on DEV-11166 - Arduino Ethernet Shield 2

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You need the SilverTel PoE module to complete it. It should be AG9120S, at least that’s what the old Arduino Ethernet and Ethernet Shield used.


Customer #27635 on DEV-12660 - SparkFun MP3 Player Shield

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Aaaarrrggghhh! I put this MP3 player on top of the DUE, and could not get it to work (2 weeks trying). I then bought an UNO, and it worked fine. The difference? The DUE defaults pin 4 as an input with a pull up. Pin 4 is wired to the GPIO1 on the VS-1053B, which (I think) was putting it in MIDI mode. From the datasheet: “If GPIO0 is low and GPIO1 is high, Real-Time MIDI mode is entered.”

Setting pin 4 as an output, and driving low made it work!

Hope this helps someone.

James20 on WRL-10416 - XBee 2mW RPSMA - Series 2 (ZigBee Mesh)

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Can anyone tell me if XBee’s can stream serial data from master to slave whilst also sending analog values serially at the same time?

Sembazuru on New Product Friday: This. Is. SparkFun!

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For those keeping score, that Arduino Ethernet Shield 2 is an Arduino.org product, not an Arduino.cc product. That’s all I’m going to say about politics here.

The “new” R3 arduino header arrangement is also there on the regular Arduino Ethernet Shield, so that is not a new feature of this revision of the product. Technically it is the Arduino 1.0 pinout. Commonly, and mistakenly, called the R3 pinout because it was first seen on the R3 Arduino boards.

What is new are the TinkerKit headers, and components shifted around to make room for the headers. One of the major things that moved is the reset button, but that is actually quite minor for most people. More importantly, both the SD card and the optional PoE mounting appear to be in very nearly the same place. (I’d have to compare CAD files to be sure.)

One thing that always bugged me about the PoE module is Arduino never carried it as a stand-alone part in their store. One could get an Ethernet Shield with one installed, but if one wanted to upgrade an existing shield to use PoE one had to try to figure out how to source the module themselves. Do you guys at SparkFun think you could look into stocking them? I don’t expect that it would be a high volume product, so an initial order of 10 might last you a year…

3Dawn on AVC 2015 Recap

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Can you list the points scored by the winners? I want to know what my target is for next year.

Evil_Rich on SparkFun Live: GPS Speedometer

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did the video from the LIVE get posted? I missed it live and would like to watch.

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